News

 

Following her practice-based and design-led research on bespoke garment's conception, Jeanne Vicerial will defend her SACRe (Sciences, Arts, Creation, Research) doctoral research Thursday the 3rd of October at 14h, in Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs (Paris). I'm delighted to invite you to this event. The defense is opened to the public on registration only and at this link: 
https://www.eventbrite.com/e/billets-soutenance-de-these-de-doctorat-sciences-arts-recherche-creation-de-jeanne-vicerial-72926582371 You will also find attached to this email further details about the event and below a summary in English. Please note that the defense will be in French. 

 

Clinique Vestimentaire (Dress Clinic): For a new paradigm of creation & custom-made clothing design 

 

Today, we are familiar with two techniques of creation and clothing design: tailor-made and ready-to-wear. These are usually considered as opposites. If we compare these two models of clothing design, we come to the conclusion that: with ready-to-wear, the individual must belong to a size and adapt to it, whereas in custom-made clothing, the object is adapted to the person. This research aims to study these different approaches in order to converge them towards new systems of creation and production of clothing that take the form of a new paradigm: the “ready-to-measure”. 

 

In ready-to-wear design, clothing can be considered as a consumable product, whereas with custom-made clothing, it acquires a special status because of its relationship with the hand of the person who designed/manufactured it. The “ready-to-measure” seeks this status of clothing object in connection with the body of the one who wears it. With the paradigm of the “ready-to-measure”, the advantages of both approaches are reconciled: the speed of obtaining ready-to-wear garments and the unique and specific character of tailor-made clothing. I work with a research-by-practice approach and research-by-design approach. These action-based research claim results related to practice, in this case the crafting of clothing, but also research results, which are discussed and positioned in disciplinary fields, specifying specific zones of ignorance, often at the boundaries of each of the scientific disciplines involved in our subject of creation/conception and clothing production. The fashion system culminating in Fast Fashion defines the context in which this research was carried out and from which three main forms of experimentation are deployed: “Tricotissage” (knitting-weaving), Connected accessories as EEGs and collection “Lignes noires”. This research “through practice” includes the ready-to-measure creation and production project and its shared actions and results, such as the “Tricotissage table” (a real creative tool and production machine), know-how and expertise, from which research questions are born and led in their studies to new interdisciplinary knowledge that makes old practices and those we have proposed in the new ready-to-measure paradigm understandable.